The Straits Times World News
· collected 2026-08-28 · by The Straits Times
Dispute over cheese names causes stumbling block in US-Mexico trade negotiations
MEXICO CITY, Aug 28 - What's in a cheese name?
asserted
What → cause → name
That question has become a sticking point in U.S.-Mexico trade talks, according to two Mexican government sources who spoke on condition of anonymity because, no matter how you slice it, cheese diplomacy can be delicate.
The U.S. is objecting to Mexico's new trade deal with the European Union, which extends special protections to hundreds of European products whose names are tied to specific regions, such as Parmigiano Reggiano, feta and manchego.
uncertain
which → become → Reggiano
It also gives the European Union legal recourse against violations.
asserted
It → give → violations
Washington argues that the deal, signed in May, would restrict future U.S. producers from selling cheeses in Mexico under names such as parmesan and feta.
uncertain
deal → argue → parmesan
The U.S. has long maintained those names are generic, while the EU says parmesan should be reserved for Parmigiano Reggiano from northern Italy and feta cheese from select parts of Greece.
asserted
parmesan → maintain → Greece
"It's absolutely wrong what Mexico did," said Jaime Castaneda, executive vice president of the U.S. Dairy Export Council.
asserted
Castaneda → do → Council
"The Mexican government has to make it absolutely certain that the United States and the Mexican manufacturers of common cheese names will continue to be able to be in the market."
asserted
States → have → market
The U.S. and Mexico are in the midst of thorny bilateral talks to secure an interim trade deal this year, while parallel discussions are ongoing to renew the U.S.-Mexico-Canada Agreement, a linchpin of Mexico's economy.
asserted
discussions → secure → economy
Those high-stakes negotiations have given the U.S. leverage to push its case for what has become a billion-dollar market for U.S. cheese exporters.
asserted
what → give → exporters
And it is causing a headache for Mexican authorities.
asserted
it → cause → authorities
Although the Mexico-EU treaty has been signed, Mexico has yet to complete the procedures needed for the pact to take effect, while the European Union has, according to a European Commission spokesperson.
uncertain
Union → sign → spokesperson
A spokesperson for Mexico's economy ministry said the agreement needs to be ratified by lawmakers.
asserted
agreement → say → lawmakers
The European Commission told Reuters it would not be possible to change the agreement's terms and that it had "taken note of the U.S. actions" opposing the protections for European cheeses.
asserted
it → tell → cheeses
Mexico's economy ministry and the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative did not respond to requests for comment, though the U.S. agency has previously stated its views on the EU's Geographical Indication (GI) product protection scheme.
asserted
agency → respond → scheme
"The EU continues to seek to expand its harmful GI system within its territory and beyond," the trade office said in an April report.
asserted
office → continue → report
It said that forcing dairy producers outside the bloc to use descriptors such as "imitation feta" or "asiago-style" was costly and unnecessary and contributes to the $1.2 billion U.S. cheese trade deficit with the bloc.
asserted
forcing → say → bloc
MEXICO'S CHEESY LOVE AFFAIR
Mexico is among the world's top consumers of cheese, favoring domestic varieties such as stringy Oaxaca cheese, often melted on quesadillas, and queso fresco, ideal for crumbly breakfast toppings.
asserted
Mexico → favor → toppings
But cheese imports, mainly from the U.S., have surged since the 1980s and now make up nearly 30% of domestic consumption, driven by products like Kraft's Grated Parmesan and Walmart's Great Value Manchego, as well as the growing popularity of pizzerias in Mexico.
asserted
imports → surge → Mexico
The U.S. exports about $1 billion worth of cheese to Mexico annually, while the EU's total dairy exports to the country only amount to $200 million.
asserted
exports → export → million
European cheese producers said the clash with the U.S. reflects opposing agricultural cultures — mass production versus protected regional traditions.
asserted
clash → say → traditions
"The U.S. has always been a nation of high-volume consumption, which is precisely the opposite of what designations of origin represent," said Antonio Martinez, head of a organization that protects manchego's regional designation.
asserted
that → represent → designation
The smaller scale of manchego producers in Spain gives them their "charm and unique identity," he added.
asserted
he → give → identity
Cheese sellers in Mexico like Rodolfo Navarro, who heads a family-owned cheese distributor, support the trade deal with the EU because it would lower tariffs on European-imported cheeses.
asserted
it → head → cheeses
"These cheeses will serve different markets.
asserted
cheeses → serve → markets
European cheese will be sold in a higher niche," he said.
asserted
he → sell → niche
Navarro's gripe is with U.S. producers, whom he and other Mexican cheesemakers accuse of undercutting local production.
asserted
he → accuse → production
The Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy warned in 2023 that Mexican dairy producers were vulnerable to cheap U.S. exports.
asserted
producers → warn → exports
U.S. cheese has a reputation for poor quality, exacerbated by the continuing popularity of the processed slices known as American cheese – made of emulsified salts and dairy leftovers, and technically not a cheese at all – as well as canned, sprayable cheese.
asserted
cheese → have → salts
U.S. producers say their cheeses have beaten European rivals in international competitions, while fans of the processed cheese value their long shelf life, versatility and low cost.
asserted
fans → say → life
"The U.S. is flooding the Mexican market with its cheeses because they can sell them very cheap," said Georgina Yescas Trujano, co-founder of Mexica cheesemonger Lactography.
asserted
Trujano → flood → Lactography
"I'm glad tariffs on European cheese are being lowered, because Mexicans can learn to eat better cheese."
asserted
Mexicans → lower → cheese
