This article is an opinion piece arguing against the notion that London had a poor culinary scene prior to the 1990s. The author credits the decade with transforming London’s food culture through the work of restaurateurs like Jon Spiteri and Terence Conran, as well as chefs such as Marco Pierre White and Gary Rhodes. Nick Jones, founder of Soho House, emphasizes how the 1990s democratized dining by expanding options beyond traditional pubs and high-end restaurants, leading to a more eclectic and diverse food scene.
Written locally by qwen2.5:14b on 2026-10-09,
using this article's own text rather than the other coverage of the
same event (that is the story summary below).
Story summary
In the 1990s, London experienced a culinary revolution with the emergence of pioneering restaurateurs like Jon Spiteri (St John) and Terence Conran (Bluebird, Quaglino's), alongside avant-garde chefs such as Marco Pierre White, Gary Rhodes, Rose Gray, and Ruth Rogers. These figures transformed the city’s food scene into one of the most eclectic and diverse in the world, challenging previous notions that London lacked quality dining options. Despite dismissive views from some quarters, including snobbish French critics and American skeptics, this period marked a significant shift towards inclusivity and innovation in culinary arts. According to Nick Jones, who founded Soho House in 1995, the era was transformative, with Soho becoming a hub for celebrity and cultural activities, contributing further to London’s evolving food culture.
Written for “Culinary Revolution 1990s” on 2026-10-09,
grounded in this article and the 0 other(s) covering the same event.
Sneering French and belligerent Americans were — and in some cases, still are — quick to dismiss the city as a trader of dull food, or else one that presented only haute cuisine at high prices or pie and mash and flabby roast beef.
asserted
that → dismiss → prices
The 1990s laid the groundwork for one of the most eclectic and diverse food scenes in the world: pioneering restaurateurs such as Jon Spiteri (St John) and Terence Conran (Bluebird, Quaglino’s) and avant-garde chefs from Marco Pierre White to Gary Rhodes, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, changed the game for ever.
asserted
restaurateurs → lay → game
“It was a transformational time,” says Nick Jones, who founded private members’ club Soho House in 1995.
asserted
who → say → 1995
“Soho was rocking.
asserted
Soho → rock → ?
I was there, hanging around at the Coach & Horses and the French House, meeting lots of interesting people.
asserted
I → hang → people
The Groucho Club was thriving, people were having a lovely time, it was all a lot of fun.
asserted
it → thrive → fun
I can hardly remember it.”
asserted
I → remember → it
“I don’t really talk about that sort of thing.
asserted
I → talk → thing
And, truly, I can’t remember.”
asserted
I → remember → ?
Safe to say, the celebs poured in.
asserted
celebs → say → ?
Perhaps, to some degree, London was missing good food in the decades before.
asserted
London → miss → decades
There were exceptions to the rule — the River Cafe, Harvey’s and Langan’s all existed.
asserted
Cafe → be → rule
Alastair Little, the godfather of “modern British food”, was well established by 1985.
asserted
Little → establish → 1985
Anyone who wanted to eat well back then, could — but to do so was much harder and certainly more exclusive.
uncertain
do → want → ?
Jones concedes perhaps there was truth to the capital’s skewed reputation.
asserted
Jones → concede → reputation
“It was more limited for a time,” says Jones.
asserted
Jones → limit → time
“It was simpler then, you mostly either went to the pub or to a restaurant.”
asserted
you → go → restaurant
It took the roaring 1990s to democratise, to expand the scene.
asserted
It → take → scene
“The 1990s laid the groundwork for one of the most eclectic and diverse food scenes in the world”
Soho was full of pioneering chefs by 1990.
asserted
Soho → lay → 1990
Mark Hix was there, taking over as head chef at Le Caprice in that year before moving on to become the executive head chef for Caprice Holdings — the work of feted restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King — and overseeing venues like The Ivy.
asserted
Hix → take → Ivy
“The Ivy was amazing in the 1990s,” says Jones.
asserted
Jones → say → 1990s
Across town, the parade of new, dynamic restaurants continued apace.
asserted
parade → continue → restaurants
The Eagle, cited as the country’s first gastropub, launched in Farringdon in 1991.
asserted
Eagle → cite → 1991
St John opened nearby in 1994, wooing Nigella Lawson and Anthony Bourdain among countless others.
asserted
John → open → others
Jones’s list of hotspots is long, beginning with the River Cafe, in town since 1987.
asserted
list → begin → 1987
It made its mark in the 1990s.
asserted
It → make → 1990s
“River Cafe stood out as easily the best.
asserted
Cafe → stand → ?
I think it still is.
asserted
it → think → ?
It’s my favourite, anyway.
asserted
It → ’ → ?
He’s a bit forgotten now.
asserted
He → ’ → ?
But he set up wonderful restaurants like Bluebird and Le Pont de la Tour.
asserted
he → set → Bluebird
They’re still going now (under different ownership) and that speaks volumes.
asserted
that → go → volumes
“I used to go to the Savoy Grill, an old-time place, and Simpson’s in the Strand with my dad.
asserted
I → use → dad
And then there were places like Moro, by Sam and Sam Clark — that place was so cool and groundbreaking.”
asserted
place → be → Clark
Read More
“People were having a lovely time, it was all a lot of fun.
asserted
it → read → fun
I can hardly remember it”
asserted
I → remember → it
Cafe Boheme was among Jones’s first restaurants, opening on a Soho corner in 1992.
asserted
Boheme → open → 1992
It’s still there, serving oysters, steak frites and tuna Niçoise.
asserted
It → ’ → oysters
“It was my first successful place,” says Jones.
asserted
Jones → say → ?
“It’s still doing omelettes.”
Today, when it comes to restaurants, London is well formed.
asserted
London → do → restaurants
…and 9 more, not listed.
The Aporia
