The Aporia
In Dubai's high-stakes culinary scene, controversy has erupted over the Michelin Guide's recent awards, which included restaurants that have temporarily or permanently closed due to the war. Food writer Samantha Wood raised concerns about this inclusion, questioning its relevance. Michelin responded by stating they were aware of the closures and would reassess when these establishments reopen. One critic joked that a new category for "closed" restaurants might be needed.
Despite the controversy, some restaurants continue to shine; Orfali Bros Bistro, run by Aleppo-born Mohammad Orfali and his siblings Wassim and Omar, received two stars in the latest guide. The restaurant recently introduced innovative dishes such as crème caramel caviar and a cold strawberry, tomato, and kohlrabi dish while refining classics like the corn bomb and spicy burghul salad wrapped in shiso leaf.
There’s a mini-scandal brewing in Dubai’s elite food scene.
Food writer Samantha Wood questioned why shuttered restaurants made the cut.